Chef Devin Dedier

The cooking is Roman at its core — the four pastas the city built, made the way they're made there — and Californian on the plate, drawn from farms a short drive from the dining room. Devin runs a true scratch kitchen: fresh and extruded pasta, focaccia, sauces, meatballs and fennel sausage all made in-house, with the pasta rolled by hand every morning before service.

His standard holds two things at once. We hold ourselves to five-star technique because the food deserves it. We refuse to act like a five-star dining room because you deserve better than that. The plates are serious; the room isn't. The team is trained to feed you like a chef and treat you like a neighbor — because most of them are.